{"id":2041,"date":"2015-08-10T09:57:21","date_gmt":"2015-08-10T07:57:21","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/noszczak.com\/blog\/?p=2041"},"modified":"2020-11-17T09:50:20","modified_gmt":"2020-11-17T08:50:20","slug":"dzien-43","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/?p=2041","title":{"rendered":"Dzie\u0144 43 (Sary-Tash \u2013 Murghab)"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>244 km, Sary-Tash (KGZ) &#8211; Murghab (TJ)<\/p>\n<p>W nocy la\u0142o i my\u015bla\u0142em \u017ce nam to pokrzy\u017cuje plany. Rano jednak pogoda dobra, ale nad Pamirem g\u0119ste chmury. Wyruszyli\u015bmy po \u015bniadaniu oko\u0142o 7 a pogoda robi si\u0119 coraz lepsza. Wspaniale, jednak podpinki by\u0142y konieczne.<\/p>\n<p>Granica Kirgistanu jest p\u00f3\u0142 godziny drogi od miasta. Bardzo szybko nam posz\u0142o, zaledwie kwadrans. Pogranicznik ca\u0142y czas ziewa\u0142 i to pewnie dla tego. Nast\u0119pnie jest oko\u0142o 10 km ziemi niczyjej. Przepi\u0119kna okolica. Wreszcie doje\u017cd\u017camy do granicy Tad\u017cykistanu. Tu nam zesz\u0142o godzin\u0119. Najpierw jedna budka, w drugiej dostajemy kwit na dezynfekcj\u0119, p\u0142acimy 10$ i facio spryskuje d\u00f3\u0142 motocykla jakim\u015b towarem, potem podeszwy but\u00f3w. Jedziemy do nast\u0119pnej budki. Tu za kolejne 10$ dostajemy czasowy import motocykla. W nast\u0119pnej budce za kolejne 10$ dostajemy policyjny \u015bwistek na motocykl. To wszystko. Jedziemy dalej. &nbsp;Poza tym kolejna godzina odzyskana, teraz wyprzedzamy Polsk\u0119 o 3h.<\/p>\n<p>Tad\u017cykistan wita nas cudownymi widokami, zapieraj\u0105cymi dech w piersiach. Droga przyjemnie zaskakuje, jest asfalt i to jest go sporo. Poza tym jest szuter ale twardy a tarka w granicach normy.<\/p>\n<p>Prze\u0142\u0119cze maj\u0105 szuter, czyli tam gdzie najtrudniej. G\u00f3ry s\u0105 skaliste, ro\u015blinno\u015bci nie ma, zwierz\u0105t te\u017c nie wida\u0107. Osad ludzkich brak. S\u0142owem pustkowie. Jest zimno a powietrze jest rzadkie. Czu\u0107 to po jakim\u015b lekkim wysi\u0142ku. Szybkie oddechy nie wiadomo po czym.<\/p>\n<p>Mijamy prze\u0142\u0119cz Kizyl-Art 4282 oraz najwy\u017csz\u0105 prze\u0142\u0119cz Ak-Baita\u0142 ponad 4600 mnpm i zaczynamy zjazd przez oko\u0142o 80 km do miasta Murgab, le\u017c\u0105cego na 3600 mnpm. Ma\u0142e miasto, kt\u00f3re nie ma pr\u0105du z jakiej\u015b przyczyny. W sumie to dziura. Znajdujemy hotel i rozpakowujemy graty. Pok\u00f3j bez \u0142azienki a\u017c 32$, drogo ale nie ma konkurencji. Pr\u0105d b\u0119dzie z generatora przez 4 godziny wieczorne, tak samo ciep\u0142a woda. W hotelu jest du\u017co podr\u00f3\u017cnik\u00f3w. Jest te\u017c przynajmniej 8 motocykli. S\u0105 Anglicy, Kanadyjczycy, W\u0142osi &nbsp;i inni. Ostrzegaj\u0105 nas przed jutrzejszym dniem, gdy\u017c b\u0119dziemy jechali du\u017cym objazdem. G\u0142\u00f3wna droga jest zniszczona przez wielkie osuwisko skalne. Oni przejechali, przejdziemy i my. Kanadyjczyk zaliczy\u0142 wczoraj dziesi\u0119\u0107 gleb, pytany p\u00f3\u017aniej Anglik zaliczy\u0142 dwadzie\u015bcia gleb jednego dnia. Zostaje moim idolem. Nie byli to nowicjusze, zapewniam. Obaj na du\u017cych GSach. Przyznam, \u017ce ma to efekt mro\u017c\u0105cy. Wszystko przez kopny piach i przez wielki ruch na tym obje\u017adzie. Droga w\u0105ska z jednej strony rzeka z drugiej ska\u0142y, a jad\u0105 tam wszystkie ci\u0119\u017car\u00f3wki razem z chi\u0144skimi mocno prze\u0142adowanymi. Podobno pe\u0142no zepsutych samochod\u00f3w, kt\u00f3rych nie ma jak omin\u0105\u0107. S\u0142owem ca\u0142y ruch z M41. To sk\u0142oni\u0142o nas do poszukiwania jakiego\u015b rozwi\u0105zania. Ale jeszcze s\u0142owo wprowadzenia. Normalna trasa do Khorog to jakie\u015b 200 km a objazd to 400 km przez Langar i Iszkaszim i robi si\u0119 go w dwa dni. Zniszczenia na normalnej trasie to zaledwie kilometr a ju\u017c miesi\u0105c nie jest to naprawione. Chcieli\u015bmy \u0142odzi\u0105 przetransportowa\u0107 motocykle ten zepsuty odcinek, ale to dopiero za 2-3 dni, bo wtedy zako\u0144cz\u0105 budow\u0119 rampy za\u0142adowczej na \u0142\u00f3d\u017a. Odcinek do przep\u0142yni\u0119cia to oko\u0142o 250 metr\u00f3w. \u015amiech.<\/p>\n<p>Pewien kierowca Fiedia, poznany w jad\u0142odajni powiedzia\u0142 nam o teoretycznie niez\u0142ej drodze, du\u017co kr\u00f3tszej ni\u017c objazd, po kt\u00f3rej nie zmieszcz\u0105 si\u0119 ci\u0119\u017car\u00f3wki, wi\u0119c b\u0119dzie o tyle lepiej. Obrabiamy teraz t\u0119 drog\u0119 na mapach i jutro chyba ni\u0105 pojedziemy. Da si\u0119 ni\u0105 teoretycznie dojecha\u0107 do Khorog w jeden dzie\u0144. Droga na mapie nie zach\u0119ca, ale Fiedia m\u00f3wi \u017ceby si\u0119 nie ba\u0107 i jecha\u0107. On przejecha\u0142 samochodem osobowym i wie co m\u00f3wi. Zobaczymy.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4743.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4743-1024x768.jpg?resize=604%2C453\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2045\" width=\"604\" height=\"453\" alt=\"IMG_4743\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4743.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4743.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4743.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4743.jpg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4743.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4749.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4749-1024x768.jpg?resize=604%2C453\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2046\" width=\"604\" height=\"453\" alt=\"IMG_4749\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4749.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4749.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4749.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4749.jpg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4749.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4768.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4768-1024x768.jpg?resize=604%2C453\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2055\" width=\"604\" height=\"453\" alt=\"IMG_4768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4768.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4768.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4768.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4768.jpg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4768.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4779.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4779-1024x768.jpg?resize=604%2C453\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2056\" width=\"604\" height=\"453\" alt=\"IMG_4779\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4779.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4779.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4779.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4779.jpg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4779.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/GCHj98Y_uDU\" allowfullscreen width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/4TbDb7AJtQY\" allowfullscreen width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/34.png\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/34-1024x576.png?resize=604%2C340\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2395\" width=\"604\" height=\"340\" alt=\"34\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/34.png?resize=1024%2C576&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/34.png?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/34.png?resize=768%2C432&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/34.png?w=1366&amp;ssl=1 1366w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/34.png?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399\">Day 43<br \/>\n244km, Sary-Tash (KGZ) \u2013 Murghab (TJ)<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399\">The rain feel at night and I thought that it would thwart our plans but in the morning the weather was nice but heavy clouds covered Pamir. We set off after breakfast, around 7a.m. and the weather was getting better. That was great but our linings were necessary.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399\">The border of Kirgizstan is only two hours away. We crossed it very fast, within 15 minutes. A border guard yawned all the time and probably that was the reason. Then approximately 10 km of no-man\u2019s land. A beautiful area. At last we arrived at the border of Tajikistan. We spent one hour there. First post, then in the second post we received a ticket for disinfection, paid 10$ and a guy sprayed the bottom of my motorcycle using some stuff, then sprayed the soles of my boots. We rode to the next post. There we paid additional 10$ and received a temporary import of the motorcycle. In the next post paid additional 10$ and received a police document for the motorcycle. That was all. We could ride further. Apart from that, we gained the next hour and are 3 hours ahead of Poland.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399\">Tajikistan welcomes us with wonderful, breath-taking views. The road surprises us enjoyably, it has asphalt, even plenty of it. In other sections the road is covered with hard break stones and the \u201cgrater\u201d is within the norm.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399\">The mountain passes are covered with break stones so they are the most difficult sections. The mountains are rocky, the land has no plants, we didn\u2019t see any animals. No human settlements. A complete desert. It\u2019s cold and the air is thin. We could feel it after any short exercise. Rapid breathing without any reason.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399\">We crossed the Kyzyl-Art pass, 4282m, and the highest Ak-Baital pass, over 4600m above sea level, and rode 80km downhill to Murghab, 3600m above sea level. A small town without electricity. We don\u2019t know the cause. Generally, it\u2019s a one-horse town. We found a hotel and unpacked our stuff. A room without toilet for 32$! It\u2019s expensive but the only hotel here. We will have electricity for 4 hours in the evening thanks to a generator, the same case with hot water. Many travelers stay in this hotel. There are also at least 8 motorcycles. Englishmen, people from Canada, Italians and others. They warn us about tomorrow because we will ride through a big diversion. The main road was destroyed by a huge rock-fall. They managed to pass it so we will do the same. The Canadian fell down ten times, the Englishmen, when we asked him about it later, fell down 20 times during one day. He\u2019s my hero. I assure you, they weren\u2019t greenhorns. Both on big GS. I must admit that this information is bloodcurdling. Everything because of sand and great traffic on the diversion. The road is narrow, between a river and rocks, all lorries go here, including highly overloaded Chinese trucks. Supposedly many broken cars, it\u2019s impossible to go them round. In short, the whole traffic from M41. It prompted us to find any solution. But I\u2019d like to make a short introduction first. The normal road to Khorog is 200km long and the diversion via Langar and Ishkashim is 400km long and can be passed within two days. The destroyed section is only 1km long and it hasn\u2019t been repaired since one month. We transport our vehicles by a ferry, bypassing the destroyed section, but it\u2019s possible after 2-3 days because after this period they will end the construction of ferry\u2019s loading ramp. The section to cross is 250m long. Laughable.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>Fiedia, a driver met in an eating place, told us about a theoretically good road, much shorter than the diversion, too narrow for trucks so it will be better. We\u2019re checking this road on our maps now and we will probably ride there tomorrow. In theory, it is possible to get to Khorog within one day. The road on the map is not inviting but Fiedia says that we shouldn\u2019t be afraid and go this way. He went there in his car and knows what he says. We will see.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>244 km, Sary-Tash (KGZ) &#8211; Murghab (TJ) W nocy la\u0142o i my\u015bla\u0142em \u017ce nam to pokrzy\u017cuje plany. Rano jednak pogoda dobra, ale nad Pamirem g\u0119ste chmury. Wyruszyli\u015bmy po \u015bniadaniu oko\u0142o 7 a pogoda robi si\u0119 coraz lepsza. Wspaniale, jednak podpinki by\u0142y konieczne. Granica Kirgistanu jest p\u00f3\u0142 godziny drogi od miasta. Bardzo szybko nam posz\u0142o, zaledwie &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/?p=2041\" class=\"more-link\">Czytaj dalej <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Dzie\u0144 43 (Sary-Tash \u2013 Murghab)<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_crdt_document":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[24],"tags":[106,105,104,102,103,101],"class_list":["post-2041","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-mongolia-2015","tag-ak-baital","tag-kyzyl-art","tag-m41","tag-murghab","tag-pamir","tag-sary-tash"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/paBe65-wV","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2041","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2041"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2041\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":9082,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2041\/revisions\/9082"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2041"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2041"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2041"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}