{"id":2043,"date":"2015-08-10T09:58:45","date_gmt":"2015-08-10T07:58:45","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/noszczak.com\/blog\/?p=2043"},"modified":"2020-11-17T09:50:18","modified_gmt":"2020-11-17T08:50:18","slug":"dzien-44","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/?p=2043","title":{"rendered":"Dzie\u0144 44 (Murghab \u2013 Sovietabad)"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>271 km, Murghab &#8211; Sovietabad (\u0421\u0430\u0432\u0435\u043e\u0431\u043e\u0434)<\/p>\n<p>Wczoraj nie uda\u0142o nam si\u0119 nigdzie kupi\u0107 karty do Internetu. Dziwne uczucie. Nic nie mo\u017cna sprawdzi\u0107, z nikim skomunikowa\u0107. Sie\u0107 kom\u00f3rkowa raz jest a raz &#8222;brak sieci&#8221;. Mo\u017ce jest to zwi\u0105zane z brakiem pr\u0105du w ca\u0142ym mie\u015bcie.<\/p>\n<p>Poprosi\u0142em kolesia z hotelu, \u017ceby udost\u0119pni\u0142 mi wifi ze swojego telefonu. Owszem po\u0142\u0105czy\u0142em si\u0119 do jego telefonu ale dalej nie wyszed\u0142em. Czyli nawet kupno karty tutaj, Internetu by nie da\u0142o. Miejsce nie dla mnie.<\/p>\n<p>Ju\u017c o 5 rano byli\u015bmy na nogach. To efekt zmiany czasu. Kawa, tankowanie ju\u017c z wiadra bo stacji brak i jazda. Przyznam, \u017ce mia\u0142em trem\u0119.<\/p>\n<p>Zaczn\u0119 od konkluzji: gdybym wiedzia\u0142, to bym chyba nie pojecha\u0142. Ta trasa to \u015bcie\u017cka g\u00f3rska. Wje\u017cd\u017ca si\u0119 na szczyt g\u00f3ry, oko\u0142o 4500 mnpm. Same kamienie. Jeste\u015bmy koszmarnie zm\u0119czeni. Trzeba by\u0142o pokona\u0107 dwie rzeki. Woda w butach. I kilkana\u015bcie strumyk\u00f3w. Na tej wysoko\u015bci ja odczuwam zwi\u0119kszone zm\u0119czenie. Po pokonaniu jednego strumienia tak mi si\u0119 w g\u0142owie kr\u0119ci\u0142o, \u017ce musia\u0142em usi\u0105\u015b\u0107 i poczeka\u0107 par\u0119 minut. Musieli\u015bmy naprawi\u0107 jeden most. Samochody z niego nie korzysta\u0142y i jecha\u0142y przez rzek\u0119, ale by\u0142o oko\u0142o metra g\u0142\u0119boko\u015bci. Samochody zwyk\u0142e tam nie je\u017cd\u017c\u0105, tylko terenowe i rosyjskie Uazy\/Zazy. W ci\u0105gu dnia widzia\u0142em 4 samochody tylko. By\u0142y deski i kamienie to uzupe\u0142nili\u015bmy braki i przejechali\u015bmy. By\u0142o ci\u0119\u017cko a miejscami bardzo ci\u0119\u017cko, szram przyby\u0142o. Ale to ju\u017c za nami. Te 271 km robili\u015bmy w 12 godzin. Jeste\u015bmy 30 km od asfaltu i przysi\u0119gam, \u017ce go jutro uca\u0142uj\u0119.<\/p>\n<p>Na noc wyl\u0105dowali\u015bmy w miasteczku Sovietabad, chocia\u017c plan by\u0142 dojecha\u0107 do Thorogh. I zrobili by\u015bmy to, aczkolwiek byli by\u015bmy oko\u0142o 21, czego nie lubi\u0119.<\/p>\n<p>Przeje\u017cd\u017caj\u0105c przez Sovietabad, Andrzej zrobi\u0142 przerwe na odpoczynek, a ja wda\u0142em si\u0119 w gadk\u0119 z lokalesami. Zapyta\u0142em kiedy b\u0119dzie dobra droga i o kt\u00f3rej dojedziemy. Zapyta\u0142em te\u017c czy mo\u017cna tu przenocowa\u0107. Tak mo\u017cna, zapraszam do siebie do domu. Takiej okazji nie mo\u017cna zmarnowa\u0107. \u015apimy w jednym pomieszczeniu z gospodarzami. Na szerokiej drewnianej konstrukcji. Kobiety \u015bpi\u0105 w innym pomieszczeniu.<\/p>\n<p>Oko\u0142o 21 przyszed\u0142 czas na kolacj\u0119. Te\u017c w m\u0119skim gronie. By\u0142a zupa z mi\u0119sem, do tego chleb, w\u0105tr\u00f3bka ze s\u0142onin\u0105 oraz w\u00f3dka i piwo. Wszystko raczej smaczne. Andrzej sporo pojad\u0142 a ja mniej. Potem mycie skromne. Bani\u0119 maj\u0105 5 km st\u0105d a codzienne mycie, to zimna woda w misce.<\/p>\n<p>Gospodarz opowiada\u0142 troch\u0119 o trudnym \u017cyciu w Pamirze. Ludzie nie maj\u0105 pracy ani pieni\u0119dzy. Ciekawostk\u0105 jest to, \u017ce ju\u017c kilka wiosek wcze\u015bniej ludzie m\u00f3wi\u0105 innym dialektem pamirskim. R\u00f3\u017cnice s\u0105 znaczne, bo pad\u0142o par\u0119 przyk\u0142ad\u00f3w.<\/p>\n<p>Le\u017c\u0119 sobie teraz, s\u0142ucham muzyki i w sumie jest mi dobrze. Jutro pojedziemy do Thorog zrobi\u0107 zakupy i jedziemy dalej w stron\u0119 Duszanbe.<\/p>\n<p>https:\/\/www.openstreetmap.org\/way\/390808286#map=16\/37.2454\/72.1956<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4801.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2060\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4801-1024x768.jpg?resize=604%2C453\" alt=\"IMG_4801\" width=\"604\" height=\"453\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4801.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4801.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4801.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4801.jpg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4801.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4803.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2061\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4803-1024x768.jpg?resize=604%2C453\" alt=\"IMG_4803\" width=\"604\" height=\"453\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4803.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4803.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4803.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4803.jpg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4803.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4804.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2062\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4804-1024x768.jpg?resize=604%2C453\" alt=\"IMG_4804\" width=\"604\" height=\"453\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4804.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4804.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4804.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4804.jpg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4804.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a> <a 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data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2058\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4830-1024x768.jpg?resize=604%2C453\" alt=\"IMG_4830\" width=\"604\" height=\"453\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4830.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4830.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4830.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4830.jpg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4830.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4821.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2065\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4821-1024x768.jpg?resize=604%2C453\" alt=\"IMG_4821\" width=\"604\" height=\"453\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4821.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4821.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4821.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4821.jpg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4821.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4828.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2066\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4828-1024x542.jpg?resize=604%2C320\" alt=\"IMG_4828\" width=\"604\" height=\"320\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4828.jpg?resize=1024%2C542&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4828.jpg?resize=300%2C159&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4828.jpg?resize=768%2C407&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4828.jpg?w=1484&amp;ssl=1 1484w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4828.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4814.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2063\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4814-1024x768.jpg?resize=604%2C453\" alt=\"IMG_4814\" width=\"604\" height=\"453\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4814.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4814.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4814.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4814.jpg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4814.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4837.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2059\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4837-1024x768.jpg?resize=604%2C453\" alt=\"IMG_4837\" width=\"604\" height=\"453\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4837.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4837.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4837.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4837.jpg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4837.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/ulUVz8SBHuw\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/35.png\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2396\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/35-1024x576.png?resize=604%2C340\" alt=\"35\" width=\"604\" height=\"340\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/35.png?resize=1024%2C576&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/35.png?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/35.png?resize=768%2C432&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/35.png?w=1366&amp;ssl=1 1366w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/35.png?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">Day 44<\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"color: #333399;\">271km, Murghab \u2013 Sovietabad<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">Yesterday we didn\u2019t manage to buy an Internet card anywhere. A strange feeling. You can\u2019t check anything, get in touch with anybody. Sometimes we have access to the mobile network. Maybe it\u2019s connected with the electricity shortage in the whole town.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">I asked a guy in the hotel to make the wifi in his mobile available to me. Of course I connected to his mobile but couldn\u2019t do anything else. So if I bought a card here, still I wouldn\u2019t have the access to the Internet. It\u2019s not a place for me.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">At 5a.m. we were already up. This is the result of time change. A cup of coffee, refueling with a bucket because there is no petrol station and we set off. I must admit that I was afraid a bit.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">Let me start with a conclusion: if I had known the road, I wouldn\u2019t have gone there. It was a mountain path. We reached a peak, about 4500m above sea level. Stones everywhere. We were terribly tired. Then had to cross two rivers. Water in our boots. And several streams. At this altitude I felt an increased fatigue. When we crossed one stream I had to sit and wait for a couple of minutes because of vertigos. We had to repair one bridge. Cars hadn\u2019t used it and gone through the river but it was around one meter deep. Cars usually don\u2019t go this way, only off-roads and Russian UAZ\/ZAZ trucks. During the day I saw only four cars. There were planks and stones so we filled gaps and went across. The road was hard, sometimes very hard. Our motorcycles have more scratches now. But it\u2019s over. We rode 271km within 12 hours. We are 30km before the asphalt road and I swear that I will kiss it tomorrow.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">We spent the night in a town called Sovietabad but our goal was Thorogh. We could do it but we would be there at 9p.m., the time I don\u2019t like.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">During our ride through Sovietabad Andrzej had a rest and I chatted with locals. I asked them where will be the better road and when we will get there. I also asked if we could sleep here. \u201cYes, you can, let me invite you to my house\u201d. We couldn\u2019t miss this opportunity. We are sleeping in one room with the hosts. On a broad wooden structure. Women sleep in another room.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">Around 9p.m. we had a supper. Also with the men. Ate a soup with meat and a piece of bread, a liver with lard and vodka and beer. Everything was quite tasty. Andrzej ate a lot, I did less. Then a modest wash. They have a banya 5km from here and a daily washing is just cold water in a bowl.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">The host told us about the hard life in Pamir. People have neither jobs nor money. It\u2019s interesting that some villages before people spoke a different Pamir dialect. The differences are significant because some examples were given.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">I\u2019m lying now, listening to music and generally I feel all right. Tomorrow we will ride to Thorog to buy some things and then go further south to Dushanbe.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>271 km, Murghab &#8211; Sovietabad (\u0421\u0430\u0432\u0435\u043e\u0431\u043e\u0434) Wczoraj nie uda\u0142o nam si\u0119 nigdzie kupi\u0107 karty do Internetu. Dziwne uczucie. Nic nie mo\u017cna sprawdzi\u0107, z nikim skomunikowa\u0107. Sie\u0107 kom\u00f3rkowa raz jest a raz &#8222;brak sieci&#8221;. Mo\u017ce jest to zwi\u0105zane z brakiem pr\u0105du w ca\u0142ym mie\u015bcie. Poprosi\u0142em kolesia z hotelu, \u017ceby udost\u0119pni\u0142 mi wifi ze swojego telefonu. Owszem &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/?p=2043\" class=\"more-link\">Czytaj dalej <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Dzie\u0144 44 (Murghab \u2013 Sovietabad)<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_crdt_document":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[24],"tags":[104,102,103,109,108,225],"class_list":["post-2043","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-mongolia-2015","tag-m41","tag-murghab","tag-pamir","tag-roshtqala-road","tag-sovietabad","tag-225"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/paBe65-wX","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2043","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2043"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2043\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":9824,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2043\/revisions\/9824"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2043"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2043"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2043"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}