{"id":2085,"date":"2015-08-11T17:08:05","date_gmt":"2015-08-11T15:08:05","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/noszczak.com\/blog\/?p=2085"},"modified":"2020-11-17T09:50:11","modified_gmt":"2020-11-17T08:50:11","slug":"dzien-46","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/?p=2085","title":{"rendered":"Dzie\u0144 46 (Chorog \u2013 Kalaikhum)"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>254 km, Chorog &#8211; Kalaikhum<\/p>\n<p>Dzi\u015b by\u0142 znowu ci\u0119\u017cki dzie\u0144 je\u017celi chodzi o jazd\u0119 i pi\u0119kny je\u017celi chodzi o widoki.<\/p>\n<p>Jechali\u015bmy nad brzegiem rzeki Panj, po drugiej stronie rzeki Afganistan. Pocz\u0105tkowo tylko ska\u0142y a w\u0142a\u015bciwie pot\u0119\u017cne g\u00f3ry, a potem w miar\u0119 jazdy i schodzenia na wysoko\u015b\u0107 oko\u0142o 1500 mnpm pojawiaj\u0105 si\u0119 ludzkie osady. Na pocz\u0105tek strasznie prymitywne, lepianki, a potem \u0142adniejsze, okazalsze, w\u015br\u00f3d strzelistych drzew, bogatsze domy i zagrody.<\/p>\n<p>Po afga\u0144skiej stronie nie ma dobrej drogi. Pocz\u0105tkowo jest jedynie zal\u0105\u017cek \u015bcie\u017cki. Nidy bym nie wszed\u0142. To jest wydr\u0105\u017cone w ska\u0142ach przej\u015bcie, w\u0142a\u015bciwie podest na szeroko\u015b\u0107 cz\u0142owieka na pot\u0119\u017cnej wysoko\u015bci i wida\u0107 ludzi, kt\u00f3rzy to przej\u015bcie robi\u0105. Ob\u0142\u0119d. Potem jednak ta \u015bcie\u017cka zamienia si\u0119 w drog\u0119, piaszczyst\u0105. Pojawiaj\u0105 si\u0119 ludzie id\u0105cy oraz jad\u0105cy na motorowerach. Afganistan, cholera! Machamy sobie. S\u0105 ubrani odmiennie od Tad\u017cyk\u00f3w, w bia\u0142e stroje i nakrycie g\u0142owy. Rzeka Panj nie jest \u0142adna. Wody ma rw\u0105ce i takie brudne, koloru kawy z mlekiem. Nie napi\u0142 bym si\u0119. Kilka rzek wpada do niej i to wida\u0107 podczas jazdy. I te rzeki te\u017c maj\u0105 swoje kolory. Przewa\u017cnie zbli\u017cone, ale jedna mia\u0142a kolor czerwony jak rozwodnione buraki nie mam poj\u0119cia sk\u0105d te kolory.<\/p>\n<p>Droga z Chorog do Kalaikhum to oko\u0142o 250 km, ale nawierzchnia jest albo s\u0142aba, albo tragiczna. Jest w\u0105sko, trzeba uwa\u017ca\u0107, \u017ceby nie wpa\u015b\u0107 po prostu w przepa\u015b\u0107. W sumie 8 godzin jechali\u015bmy. Spotkali\u015bmy ekip\u0119 Rosjan na motocyklach, oraz klika ekip rowerzyst\u00f3w, w tym Polak\u00f3w.<\/p>\n<p>W Kalaikhum skorzystali\u015bmy z oferty cz\u0142owieka, kt\u00f3ry oferowa\u0142 noclegi. Nie jest \u017ale. A nawet jest bardzo dobrze. Pi\u0119kne miejsce nad rzek\u0105, dop\u0142ywem Panj. Koszt 30$ za dwie osoby ze \u015bniadaniem i kolacj\u0105. W hotelu cena 145$ za to samo.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4881.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2092\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4881-1024x768.jpg?resize=604%2C453\" alt=\"IMG_4881\" width=\"604\" height=\"453\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4881.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4881.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4881.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4881.jpg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4881.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4878.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2091\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4878-1024x768.jpg?resize=604%2C453\" alt=\"IMG_4878\" width=\"604\" height=\"453\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4878.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4878.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4878.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4878.jpg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4878.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4875.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2090\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4875-1024x768.jpg?resize=604%2C453\" alt=\"IMG_4875\" width=\"604\" height=\"453\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4875.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4875.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4875.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4875.jpg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4875.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4886.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2096\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4886-1024x768.jpg?resize=604%2C453\" alt=\"IMG_4886\" width=\"604\" height=\"453\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4886.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4886.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4886.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4886.jpg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4886.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4890.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2098\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4890-1024x768.jpg?resize=604%2C453\" alt=\"IMG_4890\" width=\"604\" height=\"453\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4890.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4890.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4890.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4890.jpg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4890.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4889.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2097\" 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src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4898-1024x519.jpg?resize=604%2C306\" alt=\"IMG_4898\" width=\"604\" height=\"306\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4898.jpg?resize=1024%2C519&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4898.jpg?resize=300%2C152&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4898.jpg?resize=768%2C389&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4898.jpg?w=1554&amp;ssl=1 1554w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4898.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4904.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2108\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4904-1024x768.jpg?resize=604%2C453\" alt=\"IMG_4904\" width=\"604\" height=\"453\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4904.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4904.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4904.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4904.jpg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4904.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4905.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2109\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4905-1024x768.jpg?resize=604%2C453\" alt=\"IMG_4905\" width=\"604\" height=\"453\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4905.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4905.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4905.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4905.jpg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4905.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/Ddf7Qc-7KGI\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/36.png\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2397\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/36-1024x576.png?resize=604%2C340\" alt=\"36\" width=\"604\" height=\"340\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/36.png?resize=1024%2C576&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/36.png?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/36.png?resize=768%2C432&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/36.png?w=1366&amp;ssl=1 1366w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/36.png?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">Day 46<br \/>\n254km, Khorugh \u2013 Kalaikhum<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">Another day of the hard ride and beautiful views.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">We rode along the bank of Pyandzh. The land on the opposite side is Afghanistan. In the beginning we saw only rocks, actually huge mountains, then gradually rode downhill and at around 1500m above sea level spotted some human settlements. At first, the houses were extremely primitive, mud huts, then appeared prettier, bigger, richer houses and corrals encircled by slender trees.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">The Afghan side doesn\u2019t have a good road. At first, we saw only an origin of the path. I would never enter it. It was a pass carved in rocks, actually a very high platform, one-man wide, and we could see people who were creating it. A madness. However, after a while the path becomes a sandy road. People start to appear, walking or riding their mopeds. Afghanistan, shit! We\u2019re waving our hands. Their style of dressing is different from the Tajik. They wear white clothes and a headdress.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">The Pyandzh isn\u2019t beautiful. Its water is rapid and very dirty, it\u2019s the color of coffee with milk. I wouldn\u2019t drink it. Some rivers flow into it and we could see it during the ride. Also these rivers have their own colors. Mostly similar but one of them was red like watery beets. I have no idea where these colors come from.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">The road from Khorog to Kalaikhum is around 250km long but its surface is either poor or tragic. It\u2019s narrow, you must be careful because you could simply fall into a precipice. In total, we rode for 8 hours. Met a group of Russians on motorcycles and some cyclists, some of them were Poles.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">In Kalaikhum we accepted the offer of a man who offered overnight accommodations. It\u2019s not bad. It\u2019s even very good. A beautiful place by the river, a tributary of the Pyandzh. The price is 30$ for two people with breakfast and supper. The price in a nearby hotel is 145$ and includes the same things.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>254 km, Chorog &#8211; Kalaikhum Dzi\u015b by\u0142 znowu ci\u0119\u017cki dzie\u0144 je\u017celi chodzi o jazd\u0119 i pi\u0119kny je\u017celi chodzi o widoki. Jechali\u015bmy nad brzegiem rzeki Panj, po drugiej stronie rzeki Afganistan. Pocz\u0105tkowo tylko ska\u0142y a w\u0142a\u015bciwie pot\u0119\u017cne g\u00f3ry, a potem w miar\u0119 jazdy i schodzenia na wysoko\u015b\u0107 oko\u0142o 1500 mnpm pojawiaj\u0105 si\u0119 ludzkie osady. Na pocz\u0105tek &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/?p=2085\" class=\"more-link\">Czytaj dalej <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Dzie\u0144 46 (Chorog \u2013 Kalaikhum)<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_crdt_document":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[24],"tags":[114,110,104,103,112],"class_list":["post-2085","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-mongolia-2015","tag-kalaikhum","tag-khorugh","tag-m41","tag-pamir","tag-pyandzh"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/paBe65-xD","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2085","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2085"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2085\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2761,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2085\/revisions\/2761"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2085"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2085"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2085"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}