{"id":2111,"date":"2015-08-12T16:39:38","date_gmt":"2015-08-12T14:39:38","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/noszczak.com\/blog\/?p=2111"},"modified":"2020-11-17T09:50:11","modified_gmt":"2020-11-17T08:50:11","slug":"dzien-47","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/?p=2111","title":{"rendered":"Dzie\u0144 47 (Kalaikhum \u2013 Duszanbe)"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>382 km, Kalaikhum &#8211; Duszanbe<\/p>\n<p>Dojechali\u015bmy do Duszanbe, stolicy Tad\u017cykistanu. Opu\u015bcili\u015bmy Pamir. Troch\u0119 szkoda i przykro, ale taka jest kolej rzeczy. Tradycyjne ju\u017c musz\u0119 ponarzeka\u0107 na drog\u0119. Pierwsze dwadzie\u015bcia kilometr\u00f3w by\u0142 trudne, ale bez przesady. Potem nast\u0119puje cud: z szutru wje\u017cd\u017ca si\u0119 na asfalt. Ten asfalt ci\u0105gnie si\u0119 przez 80 kilometr\u00f3w i jest wspania\u0142y i r\u00f3wny. Pocz\u0105tkowo strach szybciej jecha\u0107 w obawie, \u017ce za zakr\u0119tem znowu b\u0119dzie piach lub \u017cwir, ale nic takiego nie ma miejsca. W ko\u0144cu cz\u0142owiek nabiera pewno\u015bci i czerpie przyjemno\u015b\u0107 z jazdy k\u0142ad\u0105c si\u0119 w zakr\u0119tach i przypominaj\u0105c sobie o sz\u00f3stym biegu. Bajka. Po lewej Afganistan, ale troch\u0119 ju\u017c powszedni, bo ogl\u0105dany godzinami od kilku dni. Dwa razy trzeba si\u0119 zatrzyma\u0107 do kontroli paszportowej. Wszystko w bardzo przyjemnej atmosferze.<\/p>\n<p>Cud si\u0119 ko\u0144czy i zaczyna si\u0119 &#8222;nie cud&#8221;, czyli 50 kilometrowy odcinek wjazdu na prze\u0142\u0119cz lub dwie obok siebie. Teraz b\u0119d\u0119 narzeka\u0142: nie mam ju\u017c oleju w obu amortyzatorach, silnik mi si\u0119 przegrzewa bo nie mog\u0119 rozwin\u0105\u0107 pr\u0119dko\u015bci. Jad\u0119 przewa\u017cnie na dw\u00f3jce lub jedynce i gor\u0105c bucha na nogi. Ci\u0105gle mijaj\u0105 nas samochody z przeciwka. Je\u015bli za\u015b ci\u0119\u017car\u00f3wki, to kto\u015b si\u0119 musi zatrzyma\u0107 bo w\u0105sko. Kurz przy mijaniu jest taki, \u017ce wida\u0107 na pi\u0119\u0107 metr\u00f3w i \u0142atwo wtedy wpa\u015b\u0107 niekontrolowanie w dziur\u0119. Jedzie si\u0119 non stop na stojaka i nogi nie wytrzymuj\u0105. Przez szyb\u0119 ledwo wida\u0107. W z\u0119bach piach. Cz\u0142owiek ca\u0142y spocony. Wszystko si\u0119 trz\u0119sie, puka, stuka, obija. Mam wra\u017cenie, \u017ce na pewno co\u015b si\u0119 urwie. Kamienie strzelaj\u0105 spod k\u00f3\u0142 co sekunda i wal\u0105 o os\u0142on\u0119 silnika (niezb\u0119dna). Ten opis jest uniwersalny i tak si\u0119 jedzie w trudnych warunkach o kt\u00f3rych pisa\u0142em wcze\u015bniej czy to w Mongolii czy teraz. Ten podjazd i zjazd zaj\u0105\u0142 nam dwie godziny. Kiedy to si\u0119 ko\u0144czy i zaczyna si\u0119 asfalt, musimy si\u0119 zatrzyma\u0107 i kwadrans odpocz\u0105\u0107. Nogi dr\u017c\u0105, r\u0119ce dr\u017c\u0105. Trzeba doci\u0105gn\u0105\u0107 pasy na baga\u017cach i zobaczy\u0107 czy co\u015b si\u0119 nie urwa\u0142o. Trzeba wyp\u0142uka\u0107 oczy i umy\u0107 szyb\u0119 w kasku. Mo\u017ce l\u017cejszy motocykl daje przyjemno\u015b\u0107 z takiej nawierzchni, ale ani GS ani V-Strom nie daj\u0105. W\u0142a\u015bnie dla tego nie mamy zdj\u0119\u0107 z tych odcink\u00f3w. Po prostu nie ma jak tego zrobi\u0107.<\/p>\n<p>Nast\u0119pnie doje\u017cd\u017camy do Kulab. Miasto mo\u017ce i warte nocowania i poznania, ale nie mamy na to czasu. Jad\u0105c szerok\u0105 alej\u0105 czuj\u0119 wspania\u0142y zapach szasz\u0142yka i zatrzymujemy si\u0119 przy restauracji, wchodzimy do ogrodu i zamawiamy po dwie sztuki i zimny kompot. Kompot pycha, zimny o smaku \u015bliwek. Szasz\u0142yki nie udane, w jakim\u015b kwaskowym sosie, s\u0142abizna. Tankujemy na normalnej stacji i ruszamy dalej w kierunku stolicy. Droga bardzo dobra (wiedzieli\u015bmy o tym), a oko\u0142o 80 km przed Duszanbe naprawd\u0119 pi\u0119kna r\u00f3wna droga z dwoma tunelami, w kt\u00f3rych jedziemy wolno, poniewa\u017c jest tam ch\u0142odno i przyjemnie.<\/p>\n<p>Doje\u017cd\u017camy do Duszanbe, znajdujemy z pewnymi problemami nasz hostel i sp\u0119dzamy czas standardowo, robi\u0105c przepierk\u0119, jedz\u0105c i popijaj\u0105c piwo.<\/p>\n<p>Jutro znowu nie lekko. Ot\u00f3\u017c tunel Anzob jest zamkni\u0119ty (zalany wod\u0105) i je\u015bli mamy jecha\u0107 zaplanowan\u0105 tras\u0105, to czeka nas 3 (trzy) godziny jazdy tak jak we wcze\u015bniejszym opisie, gdy\u017c trzeba pokona\u0107 dwie prze\u0142\u0119cze (czy te\u017c szczyty). Powiem szczerze &#8211; nie chc\u0119. Dumamy teraz co z tym fantem pocz\u0105\u0107.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4906.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2104\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4906-1024x768.jpg?resize=604%2C453\" alt=\"IMG_4906\" width=\"604\" height=\"453\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4906.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4906.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4906.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4906.jpg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4906.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4908.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2105\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4908-1024x768.jpg?resize=604%2C453\" alt=\"IMG_4908\" width=\"604\" height=\"453\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4908.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4908.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4908.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4908.jpg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4908.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4912.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2106\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4912-1024x768.jpg?resize=604%2C453\" alt=\"IMG_4912\" width=\"604\" height=\"453\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4912.jpg?resize=1024%2C768&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4912.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4912.jpg?resize=768%2C576&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4912.jpg?w=1280&amp;ssl=1 1280w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4912.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4913.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2107\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4913-1024x554.jpg?resize=604%2C327\" alt=\"IMG_4913\" width=\"604\" height=\"327\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4913.jpg?resize=1024%2C554&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4913.jpg?resize=300%2C162&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4913.jpg?resize=768%2C415&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4913.jpg?w=1454&amp;ssl=1 1454w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_4913.jpg?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a><br \/>\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/RJd70v8rfw4\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen=\"allowfullscreen\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/37.png\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-2398\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/37-1024x576.png?resize=604%2C340\" alt=\"37\" width=\"604\" height=\"340\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/37.png?resize=1024%2C576&amp;ssl=1 1024w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/37.png?resize=300%2C169&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/37.png?resize=768%2C432&amp;ssl=1 768w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/37.png?w=1366&amp;ssl=1 1366w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/noszczak.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/37.png?w=1208&amp;ssl=1 1208w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 604px) 100vw, 604px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">Day 47<\/span><br \/>\n<span style=\"color: #333399;\">382km, Kalaikhum \u2013 Dushanbe<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">We are in Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan. Pamir is behind us. It\u2019s a pity but this the course of events. Traditionally I must complain a bit. First twenty kilometers were hard but not excessively. Then a miracle happened: we passed from break stones into asphalt. This asphalt road is 80km long, wonderful and level. At first, we were afraid to ride faster because sand or gravel could be behind any bend. But it didn\u2019t happen. Finally a man feels more secure and enjoys the ride leaning on bends and recalling the sixth gear. An idyll. Afghanistan on our left, now a bit normal because watched for days. We had to stop twice on passport control posts. Everything carried out in a friendly atmosphere.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">The miracle ends and starts a \u201cnon-miracle\u201d, that is a 50km section of entrance to a mountain pass or two passes near each other. Now I will complain: I don\u2019t have oil in both shock absorbers, my engine is overheating because I can\u2019t ride faster, use the second or the first gear and feel the heat on my legs. Cars are passing us by all the time. If trucks are in front of us then somebody must stop because it\u2019s narrow. The dust during the passing by is so dense that we can see only 5 meters ahead of us and may ride into a hole easily. We\u2019re riding and standing simultaneously, our legs can\u2019t bear it. The road is hardly visible through the glass. Sand in my teeth. All my body is sweaty. Everything is trembling, rattling, rapping, bumping. I have an impression that surely something is going to tear off. Stones fly from the wheels every second and hit the engine\u2019s cover (it\u2019s necessary). This description is universal and this is how a ride in difficult conditions looks like. I wrote about these conditions before, in Mongolia or even recently. This uphill and downhill ride lasted two hours. When everything ends and asphalt road starts we must stop and rest for fifteen minutes. Our legs are trembling, hands are trembling. We must tighten the belts on our luggage and check if nothing tore off. Have to wash our eyes and the glass on our helmets. Maybe a lighter motorcycle offers a bigger fun on such surface but neither GS nor V-Strom gave it to us. This is why we don\u2019t have many photos from those sections. We simply couldn\u2019t take any picture.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">Then we come to Kulob. Maybe the town is worth sleeping and visiting but we don\u2019t have time for it. When we were riding through a broad avenue I felt the gorgeous smell of shashlik and we stopped in a restaurant, entered its garden and ordered two pieces of this dish and cold compote. The compote was delicious, cold, made from plums. The shashliks were a failure, in sour sauce, a complete mistake. A refueling at a normal petrol station and the ride towards the capital. The road was very good (we knew about it) and 80km before Dushanbe we entered a very beautiful, level road with two tunnels where we rode slowly because it was cold and pleasant inside.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">We are in Dushanbe now, we found our hostel having some problems and spend the time in the standard way \u2013 making the laundry, eating and drinking beer.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #333399;\">Tomorrow won\u2019t be easier. The Anzob tunnel is closed (flooded with water) and if we want to pass through the planned route, we will ride 3 (three) hours in the same way as described above because there will be two passes (or peaks) to cross. To be honest \u2013 I don\u2019t want to do it. We\u2019re thinking now what to do with it.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>382 km, Kalaikhum &#8211; Duszanbe Dojechali\u015bmy do Duszanbe, stolicy Tad\u017cykistanu. Opu\u015bcili\u015bmy Pamir. Troch\u0119 szkoda i przykro, ale taka jest kolej rzeczy. Tradycyjne ju\u017c musz\u0119 ponarzeka\u0107 na drog\u0119. Pierwsze dwadzie\u015bcia kilometr\u00f3w by\u0142 trudne, ale bez przesady. Potem nast\u0119puje cud: z szutru wje\u017cd\u017ca si\u0119 na asfalt. Ten asfalt ci\u0105gnie si\u0119 przez 80 kilometr\u00f3w i jest wspania\u0142y i &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/?p=2111\" class=\"more-link\">Czytaj dalej <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Dzie\u0144 47 (Kalaikhum \u2013 Duszanbe)<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_crdt_document":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[24],"tags":[115,114,116],"class_list":["post-2111","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-mongolia-2015","tag-dushanbe","tag-kalaikhum","tag-kulob"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/paBe65-y3","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2111","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2111"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2111\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2762,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2111\/revisions\/2762"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2111"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2111"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2111"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}