{"id":2119,"date":"2015-08-14T04:57:35","date_gmt":"2015-08-14T02:57:35","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/noszczak.com\/blog\/?p=2119"},"modified":"2020-11-17T09:50:11","modified_gmt":"2020-11-17T08:50:11","slug":"dzien-48","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/?p=2119","title":{"rendered":"Dzie\u0144 48 (Duszanbe \u2013 Buchara)"},"content":{"rendered":"

652 km, Duszanbe (TJ) – Buchara (UZ)<\/p>\n

D\u0142ugi ale fajny dzie\u0144, z kilkoma ciekawostkami.
\nZawsze gdy przekraczamy granic\u0119, to wstajemy o godzin\u0119 wcze\u015bniej, czyli o 5 rano. Chcieli\u015bmy dojecha\u0107 do Buchary a to bardzo daleko jak na nasze ostatnie dzienne zasi\u0119gi, wi\u0119c nic pewnego, a do tego granica. Pono\u0107 szybka, ale dzi\u015b czwartek trzynastego.<\/p>\n

Do granicy tylko 60 km. Po wyje\u017adzie z Duszanbe zatrzymali\u015bmy si\u0119 na wi\u0119kszej stacji benzynowej, i tankujemy za wszystkie tad\u017cyckie pieni\u0105dze (somoni) jakie mieli\u015bmy, w\u0142a\u015bciwie do pe\u0142na. Podje\u017cd\u017caj\u0105c do granicy trzeba si\u0119 zatrzyma\u0107 przed pierwszym szlabanem. Stoi tam garstka sprzedawc\u00f3w walut. Mimo niech\u0119ci do tej formy wymieniamy dolary na „sum”. Podje\u017cd\u017ca tak\u017ce motocykl Africa Twin z par\u0105 W\u0142och\u00f3w na pok\u0142adzie. Te\u017c wymieniaj\u0105 walut\u0119. Troch\u0119 rozmawiamy i jedziemy razem na przej\u015bcie graniczne.<\/p>\n

Granica od strony Tad\u017cykistanu to zaledwie 10 minut. Oddajemy kwitek otrzymany przy wje\u017adzie do kraju i jedziemy dalej.
\nPo stronie uzbeckiej te\u017c \u0142atwo. Trzeba wype\u0142ni\u0107 druk celny, jak na ka\u017cdej granicy. W\u0142oska pasa\u017cerka musi przej\u015b\u0107 przej\u015bcie jak osoba piesza, czyli w sumie nieco d\u0142u\u017cej. Schodzi nam si\u0119 oko\u0142o godzin\u0119 i gdy ju\u017c wszystkie stemple i kwity zrobione, dwaj \u017co\u0142nierze id\u0105 ze mn\u0105 do mojego motocykla, rozk\u0142adaj\u0105 obok s\u0142u\u017cbowy koc i ka\u017c\u0105 wyk\u0142ada\u0107 wszystkie baga\u017ce. Jestem mocno zdziwiony. Bior\u0119 rollbag ze sprz\u0119tem kempingowym oraz torb\u0119 ze \u015brodkowego kufra i podaj\u0119 im, a oni ka\u017cd\u0105 rzecz rozpakowuj\u0105, mi\u0119tosz\u0105, obracaj\u0105, obmacuj\u0105. My\u015bl\u0119 sobie – Jezu – to b\u0119dzie kilka godzin straconego czasu. \u0141ap\u00f3wki chc\u0105, czy co? Trafiaj\u0105 na notebooka i cyrk si\u0119 zaczyna. Jakie has\u0142o? Nie podam. Prosz\u0119 wpisa\u0107. Wybieram konto mojego syna i loguj\u0119 si\u0119. Poniewa\u017c to nowy system Windows 10 i to konto nie by\u0142o u\u017cywane, to inicjalizacja trwa piekielnie d\u0142ugo. Potem zaczyna si\u0119 dwadzie\u015bcia minut \u0142a\u017cenia celnika po komputerze. Masakra i makabra i chyba groteska. Szuka pornografii. Nic nie ma. Zostawia komputer i zabrania dotyka\u0107. Wszystko na kocu na betonie. Bierze namiot, obmacuje, wyci\u0105ga, sprawdza woreczki ze \u015bledziami, wyci\u0105ga \u015bledzie, obmacuje woreczki ze stela\u017cem, zagl\u0105da, niezdarnie pakuje. My\u015bl\u0119 sobie , \u017ce jak czego\u015b nie zrobi\u0119 to b\u0119dziemy tam nocowa\u0107, wi\u0119c zaczynam z nim rozmawia\u0107. Pytam o co chodzi, mo\u017ce jest metoda na szybsze za\u0142atwienie sprawy. Czy b\u0119dzie nas tak wszystkich skrupulatnie przegl\u0105da\u0142. Atmosfera robi si\u0119 nieco l\u017cejsza. Ale jeszcze z p\u00f3\u0142 godziny przegl\u0105daj\u0105 moje rzeczy. Ale pod koniec ju\u017c jeste\u015bmy „kumple” i wiem, \u017ce wszystko b\u0119dzie od tej pory du\u017co szybciej. Andrzeja i w\u0142och\u00f3w te\u017c sprawdzaj\u0105 „na kocu” ale o wiele bardziej powierzchownie. W\u0142osi (Walter i Sylwia) s\u0105 na granicy uzbeckiej ju\u017c trzeci raz w \u017cyciu i wiedz\u0105, \u017ce to s\u0105 „psychopaci”, jak ich mi\u0119dzy sob\u0105 nazywamy. Tak czy inaczej 2,5 h nam zabrali.<\/p>\n

Wje\u017cd\u017camy do Uzbekistanu. Ja oczywi\u015bcie jestem negatywnie nastawiony i nic mi si\u0119 nie podoba, ani wsie, ani samochody, ani ludzie. Najch\u0119tniej bym ju\u017c wyjecha\u0142. Taki efekt granicy. Jednak z czasem wszystko si\u0119 stabilizuje. Jest upalnie, pe\u0142no kurzu, wszystko suche. Jedziemy w trzy motocykle, bo W\u0142osi tak\u017ce do Buchary chc\u0105 dojecha\u0107. Fajnie, prowadz\u0119 teraz d\u0142u\u017cszy konw\u00f3j. Mam sk\u0142onno\u015b\u0107 do prowadzenia grupy. Robimy odpoczynek. Kupujemy zimne picie i jemy co\u015b ciep\u0142ego. Potem jedziemy s\u0142abymi ale asfaltowymi drogami jeszcze ze 150 km i doje\u017cd\u017camy do prze\u0142\u0119czy, gdzie podobno ma nie by\u0107 asfaltu. Ale jest i zaledwie s\u0105 kr\u00f3tkie odcinki szutru. Nie zauwa\u017camy nawet tego. W pewnym momencie Walter wychodzi na prowadzenie a ja spadam na koniec. I nagle jest bardzo przyjemnie i beztrosko. \u0141adna droga a ja my\u015bl\u0119 sobie o niebieskich migda\u0142ach i co\u015b tam sobie \u015bpiewam w my\u015blach. I zdaj\u0119 sobie spraw\u0119, \u017ce w\u0142a\u015bnie mija pi\u0119tna\u015bcie tysi\u0119cy kilometr\u00f3w wyprawy (15000 km), podczas kt\u00f3rej nieustannie prowadzi\u0142em, nawigowa\u0142em, obserwowa\u0142em nawierzchni\u0119 i kontrolowa\u0142em Andrzeja w lusterku. A teraz mam wolne. Trwa\u0142o to mo\u017ce z 50 km i potem znowu „liderowa\u0142em”.<\/p>\n

Uzbekistan to kraj bez benzyny. Jest to koszmarne prze\u017cycie dla kogo\u015b kto to widzi po raz pierwszy. Jest pe\u0142no samochod\u00f3w i zatrz\u0119sienie stacji benzynowych. Mo\u017ce nawet s\u0105 na pierwszym miejscu w \u015bwiecie. Co z tego? Nie ma benzyny. Stacje s\u0105 albo zamkni\u0119te, albo sprzedawany jest tam gaz. Stacja goni stacj\u0119, ma\u0142e, du\u017ce, kolorowe, szare, z ogr\u00f3dkami, z p\u0142otami, z \u0142aweczkami, z r\u00f3\u017cyczkami, o fiku\u015bnych nazwach, ze znaczkami. Wszystko na nic. Benzyny nie ma. Zamkni\u0119te albo gaz. Dziki kraj my\u015bl\u0119 sobie i w\u0142os mi si\u0119 je\u017cy, bo mojej benzyny starczy jeszcze na dwie godziny. Jak prze\u017cy\u0107? Trzeba si\u0119 rozgl\u0105da\u0107 i szybko uczy\u0107. Przy drodze, opr\u00f3cz arbuz\u00f3w, melon\u00f3w, fanty i coli, stoj\u0105 te\u017c butelki z sikami, na pierwszy rzut oka. A nie, to benzyna w butelkach po napojach. Stoi taka butelka na kamieniu i nic wi\u0119cej. Walter poucza: to znak, \u017ce tu jest szansa na benzyn\u0119. On sam ma prawie najmniejszy bak, wi\u0119c musi wykaza\u0107 inicjatyw\u0119. Podje\u017cd\u017camy na malutki bazar w wiosce, przez kt\u00f3r\u0105 jedziemy i nast\u0119puje dla mnie pierwsza lekcja tankowania. Parkujemy, pytamy czy jest benzyna. Jest, a ile trzeba? Na przyk\u0142ad dziesi\u0119\u0107 litr\u00f3w. B\u0119dzie. A ile oktan\u00f3w? 91. Po ile? 3500 somoni (mniej ni\u017c dolar). Ok, bierzemy 30 litr\u00f3w, macie tyle? Znajdzie si\u0119. Nast\u0119pnie znosz\u0105 to wszystko w litrowych i p\u00f3\u0142tora litrowych butelkach. Ka\u017cdy z nas bierze swoja dziesi\u0105tk\u0119 i przelewa do baku, a dzieci zabieraj\u0105 puste butelki. Potem zap\u0142ata i seria pyta\u0144: ile kosztuje, ile pali, ile wyci\u0105ga? Mycie r\u0105k bo \u015bmierdz\u0105 benzyn\u0105 i w drog\u0119. My\u015bl\u0119 sobie, \u017ce dam rad\u0119 w tym kraju. Tyle stacji, ale tankowanie na bazarze. Ca\u0142y czas uwa\u017cam, \u017ce to dziki kraj.<\/p>\n

Dalej jedziemy do\u015b\u0107 dobr\u0105 i monotonn\u0105 drog\u0105. Tego mi by\u0142o trzeba, du\u017cego dziennego zasi\u0119gu. Odwyk\u0142em od tego. Robimy w sumie dwie p\u00f3\u0142godzinne przerwy na jedzenie i do Buchary doje\u017cd\u017camy godzin\u0119 po zachodzie s\u0142o\u0144ca. Ta ostatnia godzina jest trudna, bo droga mocno dziurawa przed miastem. Walter wie, w kt\u00f3rym hotelu oni si\u0119 zatrzymaj\u0105, wi\u0119c my tak\u017ce si\u0119 pod\u0142\u0105czamy. Faktycznie, hotel fajny. 40$ z dwie osoby ze \u015bniadaniem, w \u015bcis\u0142ym starym mie\u015bcie. Motocykle w\u0119druj\u0105 na patio hotelowe. Pokoje klimatyzowane, standard bardzo dobry (przynajmniej dla przybysz\u00f3w z Pamiru). Andrzej wyczarowuje po dwa piwa a ja siadam \u017ceby co\u015b napisa\u0107. Internet jest hotelowy ale przerywa i jest wolny.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_4916\"<\/a> \"IMG_4917\"<\/a> \"IMG_4920\"<\/a>\"38\"<\/a>\"39\"<\/a><\/p>\n

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\n

Day 48
\n652km, Dushanbe (TJ) \u2013 Bukhara (UZ)<\/span><\/p>\n

A long but great day with some interesting facts. <\/span>
\n Always when we are crossing any border our day starts one hour earlier, at 5a.m. We wanted to get to Bukhara but it\u2019s a far journey regarding our latest daily distances, so it\u2019s uncertain. And additionally the border. We heard that it doesn\u2019t take much time but today is Thursday 13th<\/sup>.<\/span><\/p>\n

Only 60km to the border. After leaving Dushanbe we stopped in a bigger petrol station and refueled for all Tajik money (somoni) we had. The tanks were actually full. Near the border we had to stop before the first turnpike where stood some money sellers. Despite our reluctance for this model, we exchanged our dollars for \u201csums\u201d. An Africa Twin motorcycle with an Italian couple also came here and they also exchanged their money. We chatted a bit and then were riding together towards the border crossing.<\/span><\/p>\n

The border on the Tajik side takes only 10 minutes. We gave back a paper received at the entrance to the country and rode further. <\/span>
\n The Uzbek side is also easy. We had to fill in a customs form, just like on any border. The Italian passenger had to cross it as a pedestrian so it lasted a bit longer. After one hour, when we already had all stamps and papers, two soldiers came with me to my motorcycle, spread their blanket and told me to lay out all my luggage. I was deeply surprised, took my roll-bag with the camping equipment and my bag from the middle trunk and gave them. They unpacked everything, crumpled, turned, touched. I thought that, Jesus!, it will be one hour lost. Do they want a bribe? Found my notebook and the farce started. Password? \u201cI won\u2019t tell.\u201d \u201cEnter it!\u201d I opened my son\u2019s profile and logged into it. Because this was the new Windows 10 system and the profile wasn\u2019t used, the initialization lasted terribly long. Then started a 20-minute computer check performed by the officer. A massacre, a horror and probably a grotesque. He looked for pornography. Found nothing. Left the computer and forbade to touch it. Everything on the blanket on concrete. He took my tent, touched it, pulled all the stuff out, checked bags with herrings, pulled the herrings out, touched bags with the frames, looked inside, packed everything clumsily. I thought that if I won\u2019t do anything then we will spend the night there, so started to speak to him. I asked him what\u2019s going on, maybe there\u2019s a faster way of fixing the thing. Is he going to check all of us so meticulously? The atmosphere became less dense. But he was still checking my things for the next half an hour. At the end of the inspection we were already \u201cmates\u201d and I knew that everything would be performed faster from now on. Andrzej and the Italians were also checked \u201con blankets\u201d but more roughly. The Italians (Walter and Silvia) were on the Uzbek border for the third time in their lives and knew that these people were \u201cpsychopaths\u201d (we gave them this name in our talks). Anyway, they took us 2,5 hour. \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

We entered Uzbekistan. Of course my attitude was negative and didn\u2019t like anything \u2013 villages, cars, people. I would preferably have left this country. The effect of this border. But everything was gradually getting stabilized. The air was hot, full of dust, everything was dry. Our group consisted of three motorcycles because the Italians also wanted to get to Bukhara. That\u2019s great, I was leading a longer convoy at the moment. I have a tendency for being a leader of groups. We had a rest, bought some cold drinks and something hot to eat. Then were riding on poor but asphalt roads for 150km and reached a mountain pass where would have been no asphalt. But it was. And just short sections of break stones. We didn\u2019t even noticed them. At one moment Walter became the leader while I was the last. And suddenly the ride became pleasant and careless. The road was nice and I started to daydream and sung something in my mind. And I realized that it was the 15\u00a0000th<\/sup> kilometer of our journey during which I led, navigated, observed surfaces and controlled Andrzej in my mirror. At the moment I had a time off. It lasted for 50km and then I was the leader again.<\/span><\/p>\n

Uzbekistan is the country without petrol. It\u2019s a nightmare for anybody who sees it for the first time. Many cars and many petrol stations. Maybe they are even the world-leaders in this field. So what? No petrol. Stations are either closed or sell gas (metan). One station after another, small, big, colorful, grey, with gardens, with fences, with benches, with roses, with fancy names, with signs on them. Everything is useless. No petrol. Closed or gas. \u201cA wild country,\u201d I thought, and my hair rose because I had fuel for only two hours of ride. What to do? We had to look around and learn fast. By the road, among watermelons, melons, Fanta and Cola, stood bottles with piss (at first sight). No! This is petrol in bottles. Such bottle stands on a stone and nothing more. Walter teaches us: this is a sign that you can get some petrol here. He had almost the smallest tank so had to show his initiative. We came to a bazaar in a village which we were passing by and I had the first lesson of refueling. We parked, asked about petrol. They had it. \u201cHow much do you need?\u201d 10 litres, for example. They had it. How many octane? 91. How much? 3500 somoni (less than 1 dollar). \u201cOk, we will take 30 liters, do you have this amount?\u201d \u201cWe will have.\u201d Then brought the petrol in 1-litre or 1,5-litre bottles. Each of us took his 10 liters and poured into tanks and children removed the empty bottles. Then the payment and series of questions: how much, how much consumes, how fast? We washed our hands and set off. I think that we will manage to pass this country. So many stations but you have to refuel on a bazaar. Still I think that this country is a complete wilderness.<\/span><\/p>\n

Then we were riding on a good and monotonous road. That was what I needed \u2013 a long daily distance. I was out of this habit. In total, we made two thirty-minute stops to eat something and reached Bukhara one hour after sunset. The last hour was hard because the road near the city was full of holes. Walter knew the hotel where they were going to sleep so we joined them. The hotel is cool indeed. 40$ for two people, including breakfast and in the old town. The motorcycles went to the hotel\u2019s patio. Rooms are air-conditioned, their standard is very good (at least for travelers coming from Pamir). Andrzej suddenly brought two beers for each one of us and I sat down to write something. The Internet comes from the hotel but stops for moments and is slow.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

652 km, Duszanbe (TJ) – Buchara (UZ) D\u0142ugi ale fajny dzie\u0144, z kilkoma ciekawostkami. Zawsze gdy przekraczamy granic\u0119, to wstajemy o godzin\u0119 wcze\u015bniej, czyli o 5 rano. Chcieli\u015bmy dojecha\u0107 do Buchary a to bardzo daleko jak na nasze ostatnie dzienne zasi\u0119gi, wi\u0119c nic pewnego, a do tego granica. Pono\u0107 szybka, ale dzi\u015b czwartek trzynastego. Do … Czytaj dalej Dzie\u0144 48 (Duszanbe \u2013 Buchara)<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_crdt_document":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[24],"tags":[117,115],"class_list":["post-2119","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-mongolia-2015","tag-bukhara","tag-dushanbe"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/paBe65-yb","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2119","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2119"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2119\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2763,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2119\/revisions\/2763"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2119"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2119"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2119"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}