{"id":2194,"date":"2015-08-16T19:19:09","date_gmt":"2015-08-16T17:19:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/noszczak.com\/blog\/?p=2194"},"modified":"2020-11-17T09:50:11","modified_gmt":"2020-11-17T08:50:11","slug":"dzien-51","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/?p=2194","title":{"rendered":"Dzie\u0144 51 (Buchara \u2013 Chiwa)"},"content":{"rendered":"

479 km, Buchara – Chiwa<\/p>\n

Ten dzie\u0144 zacz\u0105\u0142 si\u0119 o 5:15. Chcieli\u015bmy jeszcze zje\u015b\u0107 o sz\u00f3stej \u015bniadanie (by\u0142o um\u00f3wione) i jecha\u0107 jeszcze gdy s\u0142o\u0144ce nie pali. Dzi\u015b wje\u017cd\u017camy w rejony pustynne, wi\u0119c je\u015bli tylko mo\u017cna unikn\u0105\u0107 s\u0142o\u0144ca, to tak trzeba robi\u0107.<\/p>\n

Nawigacj\u0119 nastawi\u0142em na hotel Szeherezada w Chiwie, bo w tym hotelu mieli te\u017c zatrzyma\u0107 si\u0119 W\u0142osi, a lubimy ich towarzystwo. Co ciekawe Garmin ma w swojej bazie niemal wszystkie obiekty do kt\u00f3rych je\u017adzimy podczas podr\u00f3\u017cy. Niesamowite u\u0142atwienie. Nie trzeba nastawi\u0107 adresu, co nie jest takie \u0142atwe przy transkrypcjach na angielski a niekiedy przy mapach Open Street Map nawet niemo\u017cliwe, tylko wybieram z listy, potwierdzam na mapie, \u017ce nie ma b\u0142\u0119du i jazda. \u015aniadanie op\u00f3\u017ani\u0142o si\u0119 o dwadzie\u015bcia minut ale w sumie uda\u0142o si\u0119 wyjecha\u0107 przed si\u00f3dm\u0105.<\/p>\n

W bocznej stopce Andrzeja Suzuki odpad\u0142a w\u0142a\u015bnie stopka. Tak jakby w kostce si\u0119 u\u0142ama\u0142a. Czyli zosta\u0142a sama noga bez stopy. Ogromny k\u0142opot. Bo na centralk\u0119 z powodu ci\u0119\u017caru nie postawi si\u0119 w drodze. A nawet je\u015bli, to na chwil\u0119 trzeba oprze\u0107 na bocznej, kt\u00f3ra wbija si\u0119 teraz w ziemie jak gw\u00f3\u017ad\u017a.<\/p>\n

Jedziemy wolno bo spore dziury. Nigdzie nie ma butelek z benzyn\u0105. Na razie nie potrzeba, ale jeste\u015bmy czujni. Jest niedziela rano i mo\u017ce przez to. W ka\u017cdym razie po drodze widz\u0119 jaki\u015b otwarty ma\u0142y warsztat i podje\u017cd\u017camy. Pytam czy jest spawarka i okazuje si\u0119 \u017ce jest. Andrzej sam sobie spawa a ja przy okazji kupuj\u0119 dziesi\u0119\u0107 litr\u00f3w paliwa. Ju\u017c spokojniejsi jedziemy dalej. Widoki s\u0105 pustynne a droga wyboista. Ale prace drogowe ci\u0105gle trwaj\u0105, wi\u0119c trzeba pochwali\u0107 i powiedzie\u0107, \u017ce za kilka lat ta droga b\u0119dzie bardzo dobra. Jest te\u017c odcinek znakomitej autostrady, przez oko\u0142o sto kilometr\u00f3w. Na tym w\u0142a\u015bnie odcinku nasze motocykle po\u017ceraj\u0105 chyba z 7 litr\u00f3w na sto lub wi\u0119cej, jad\u0105c 100 km\/h lub mniej. To s\u0142abe paliwo znika w oczach a zawory dzwoni\u0105. Udaje nam si\u0119 dokupi\u0107 po drodze paliwa do pe\u0142na, ma chyba 80 oktan\u00f3w a p\u0142acimy drogo. W pewnym momencie silnik tak s\u0142abo pracuje i dzwoni, \u017ce postanawiam prze\u0142\u0105czy\u0107 map\u0119 zap\u0142onu na inn\u0105, dla niskich oktan\u00f3w. Robi si\u0119 to u mnie zmieniaj\u0105c kostk\u0119 w skrzynce pod siedzeniem (trzeba mie\u0107 drug\u0105). Zmiana ogromna na lepsze. Dzwonienie zawor\u00f3w przesun\u0119\u0142o si\u0119 znacznie. A Andrzej nie ma oktano korektora i si\u0119 m\u0119czy.<\/p>\n

Doje\u017cd\u017camy do Chiwy. Kierujemy si\u0119 do hotelu Szeherezada. Miejsca s\u0105, cena 50$ za pok\u00f3j. Lokalizacja doskona\u0142a. S\u0105 te\u017c nasi znajomi z W\u0142och. Witamy si\u0119 i od razu zaczynamy walk\u0119 o paliwo. To jest chore. Dwie pierwsze godziny w pi\u0119knym starym mie\u015bcie zmarnowane na organizowanie benzyny i to z pomoc\u0105 w\u0142a\u015bciciela hotelu. I teraz w \u0142azience stoj\u0105 i \u015bmierdz\u0105 baniaki.<\/p>\n

Miasto jest \u0142adne. Du\u017co mniejsze ni\u017c Buchara i cichsze. Wszystkie atrakcje wewn\u0105trz mur\u00f3w starego miasta. Chodzimy dobr\u0105 godzin\u0119. W ko\u0144cu wracamy by odpocz\u0105\u0107 a po kolejnej godzinie wsp\u00f3lnie idziemy na kolacj\u0119. Kolacja bardzo udana. Tradycyjnie szasz\u0142yki i piwo, ale tym razem naprawd\u0119 smaczne.<\/p>\n

My jutro \u015bpimy do oporu a Walter z Sylwi\u0105 jad\u0105 z powrotem do Buchary i dalej do Biszkeku, sk\u0105d odlatuj\u0105 do domu. Mogli by wraca\u0107 inn\u0105 drog\u0105, ale ju\u017c wie gdzie po drodze tankowa\u0107, wi\u0119c b\u0119dzie wraca\u0142 t\u0105 sam\u0105. Sami oce\u0144cie. Co „oni” spieprzyli w tym kraju, \u017ce powsta\u0142a taka sytuacja z benzyn\u0105. Jest olbrzymi czarny rynek, zajmuje si\u0119 tym tysi\u0105ce os\u00f3b. Ja zapami\u0119tam, \u017ce to w\u0142a\u015bnie jest najwi\u0119ksz\u0105 atrakcj\u0105 turystyczn\u0105 Uzbekistanu. Staro\u017cytne miasta, to przy tym „piku\u015b”.<\/p>\n

Walter to niesamowicie do\u015bwiadczony podr\u00f3\u017cnik motocyklowy. By\u0142 niemal wsz\u0119dzie.\u00a0 Mam nadziej\u0119, \u017ce si\u0119 jeszcze spotkamy.<\/p>\n

Podaj\u0119 link do jego strony, gdzie mo\u017cna kupi\u0107 ksi\u0105\u017ck\u0119 jego autorstwa:<\/p>\n

http:\/\/www.walterramperti.com<\/a><\/p>\n

Spawnie i tankowanie przy okazji | Welding and refueling at the same time<\/span><\/p>\n

\"IMG_5037\"<\/a> \"IMG_5038\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Na pytanie o benzyn\u0119, w Uzbekistanie odpowiadaj\u0105: stacji u nas du\u017co. Tylko po co? | The answer to the question about petrol in Uzbekistan: we have many stations. But what for?<\/span>\"IMG_5049\"<\/a> \"IMG_5052\"<\/a> \"IMG_5048\"<\/a> \"IMG_5047\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Klasyczny obrazek, wszyscy si\u0119 na nas patrz\u0105. Czuj\u0119 si\u0119 jak w zoo | A classic picture, everybody stares at us. I feel like in a zoo<\/span>\"IMG_5046\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Okolica raczej pustynna | The area is rather desert<\/span>\"IMG_5039\"<\/a> \"IMG_5041\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Nasz hotel – polecam | Our hotel \u2013 it has my recommendation<\/span>\"IMG_5059\"<\/a> \"IMG_5058\"<\/a> \"IMG_5057\"<\/a> \"IMG_5055\"<\/a> \"IMG_5054\"<\/a> \"IMG_5060\"<\/a>\"IMG_5087\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Chiwa | Khiva<\/span> \"IMG_5080\"<\/a> \"IMG_5083\"<\/a> \"IMG_5075\"<\/a> \"IMG_5073\"<\/a> \"IMG_5069\"<\/a> \"IMG_5068\"<\/a> \"IMG_5064\"<\/a>\"40\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\n

Day 51
\n479km, Bukhara \u2013 Khiva<\/span><\/p>\n

The day started at 5:15a.m. We wanted to eat breakfast at 6a.m. (we ordered it before) and set off when the sun didn\u2019t heat. Today we\u2019re going to enter desert areas so we must avoid the sun as far as it\u2019s possible.<\/span><\/p>\n

I set my navigation to lead us to Scheherazade Hotel in Khiva because the Italians were supposed to stay there and we like their company. What\u2019s interesting, my Garmin has almost every object we visit during our journey in its database. An incredible convenience. We don\u2019t have to enter any addresses, what\u2019s not easy in case of English transcriptions or even impossible in case of Open Street Maps, we just select the name from the list, confirm on the map that there\u2019s no error and go there. The breakfast was 20 minutes late but we managed to leave before 7a.m.<\/span><\/p>\n

The side foot in Andrzej\u2019s Suzuki tore off as if it broke off in the angle. So only a leg remains, without its foot. A great problem. During the ride it can\u2019t stay in central position because of its weight. And even if will manage to do it somehow, he must rest on the second side foot for a moment but it gets into ground like a nail.<\/span><\/p>\n

We\u2019re riding slowly because of the holes. Nowhere can find bottles with petrol. We don\u2019t need them so far but we\u2019re careful. It\u2019s Sunday morning and maybe this is the reason. Anyway, I see a little repair garage by the road, it\u2019s open so we go closer. I ask about a welding machine and they have it. Andrzej is welding the part on his own and I\u2019m buying 10 liters of petrol by the way. We are riding further being calmer. The views are desert and the road is full of holes. But road works continue so we must praise them and say that in a few years the road will be very good. There is also a section of great highway, 100km long. On this section our motorcycles consume approximately 7l per 100km and are riding 100km\/h or less. This poor petrol disappears quite fast and our valves start ringing. We manage to buy petrol by the road and our tanks are full now, probably it\u2019s 80-octane but we pay much. At one moment the engine works so badly and rings that I decide to switch its ignition map for the type which is the best for low-octane petrol. I perform it by changing a cube in the box under my seat (I must have another one). A great change for the better. The ringing of valves shifted significantly. And Andrzej doesn\u2019t have the corrector of octane rating and is getting tired.<\/span><\/p>\n

We\u2019re near Khiva and are heading for the Scheherazade hotel. They have rooms, the price is 50$ for one. Its location is perfect. Our friends from Italy are also here. We greet each other and at once start the fight for petrol. It\u2019s silly. The first two hours in the beautiful city wasted for getting petrol \u2013 and what\u2019s more, with a help of the hotel owner. Now barrels are in the bathroom and stink.<\/span><\/p>\n

The city is nice. Much smaller than Bukhara and more peaceful. All attractions are located within walls of the old town. We are walking for about one hour. At last we come back to rest and after the next hour go to eat a supper together. It\u2019s very pleasant. Traditionally shashliks and beer but now the food is really tasty.<\/span><\/p>\n

Tomorrow we will sleep as long as we want to and Walter and Silvia will go back to Bukhara and then to Bishkek where they have a flight back home. They could choose a different way but he has already known the places where he can refuel so decided to ride the same way. Judge it in your minds. What \u201cthey\u201d have done in this country that such a situation with petrol has occurred. There is a huge black market involving thousands of people. I remembered it as the biggest tourist attraction in Uzbekistan. The ancient cities seem tiny in comparison with it.<\/span><\/p>\n

Walter is an incredibly experienced motorcycle traveler. He\u2019s been almost everywhere. I hope that we will meet again.<\/span><\/p>\n

The link to his website, where you can buy his book, is below:<\/span>
\n http:\/\/www.walterramperti.com<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

479 km, Buchara – Chiwa Ten dzie\u0144 zacz\u0105\u0142 si\u0119 o 5:15. Chcieli\u015bmy jeszcze zje\u015b\u0107 o sz\u00f3stej \u015bniadanie (by\u0142o um\u00f3wione) i jecha\u0107 jeszcze gdy s\u0142o\u0144ce nie pali. Dzi\u015b wje\u017cd\u017camy w rejony pustynne, wi\u0119c je\u015bli tylko mo\u017cna unikn\u0105\u0107 s\u0142o\u0144ca, to tak trzeba robi\u0107. Nawigacj\u0119 nastawi\u0142em na hotel Szeherezada w Chiwie, bo w tym hotelu mieli te\u017c zatrzyma\u0107 … Czytaj dalej Dzie\u0144 51 (Buchara \u2013 Chiwa)<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_crdt_document":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[24],"tags":[117,118,119],"class_list":["post-2194","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-mongolia-2015","tag-bukhara","tag-khiva","tag-kyzyl-kum"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/paBe65-zo","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2194","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2194"}],"version-history":[{"count":15,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2194\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":10489,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2194\/revisions\/10489"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2194"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2194"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/noszczak.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2194"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}